Cashmere vs Wool: Which Shrinks and Stretches More?

Cashmere and wool are both beloved for their warmth, softness, and luxurious feel, but they behave very differently when it comes to shrinking and stretching. For many shoppers, particularly in the UK, deciding between cashmere and wool involves understanding how each fabric responds to wear and care. This comparison will explore the differences in shrinking and stretching tendencies between cashmere and wool, helping you make an informed choice when shopping for winter garments.

Shrinking Tendencies: Cashmere vs Wool

One of the biggest concerns when washing natural fibres is whether they will shrink, and this varies significantly between cashmere and wool. Cashmere, derived from the fine undercoat of cashmere goats, is known for its delicate fibres. When exposed to heat or agitation, cashmere clothing can shrink, but it is more forgiving than wool in many cases. Wool, particularly from sheep, has a more pronounced tendency to shrink, especially if not handled properly.

Wool’s structure contains microscopic barbs that can lock together under the wrong conditions—like hot water or too much friction—causing the fabric to felt and shrink irreversibly. Cashmere, by contrast, has finer, smoother fibres, which makes it slightly less prone to extreme shrinkage. However, improper washing can still lead to size reduction in cashmere, particularly in garments like jumpers or scarves.

Ultimately, wool is more likely to shrink dramatically if washed incorrectly, while cashmere can be saved with more careful, gentle handling.

Stretching Differences Between Cashmere and Wool

Stretching is a common concern for those investing in high-quality fabrics like cashmere and wool, particularly when the garments are frequently worn or improperly cared for. While both fibres have the potential to stretch, the degree and reasons for stretching differ significantly between the two.

Cashmere: A Delicate Fibre with High Stretch Potential

Cashmere, known for its softness and luxurious feel, is more prone to stretching than wool due to the delicate nature of its fibres. Garments made from cashmere clothing, such as jumpers and cardigans, can lose their shape easily if mishandled, particularly when wet. The fineness of the cashmere fibres makes them more vulnerable to external forces such as gravity, improper washing, or hanging.

Interestingly, cashmere fibres can stretch by about 18% of their original length before they begin to show signs of permanent deformation. This makes it essential to handle cashmere garments gently, especially when wet, as the weight of water can cause the fabric to elongate, particularly in the shoulders and sleeves. To prevent this, cashmere should always be laid flat to dry, and garments should be folded during storage to maintain their shape over time.

Wool: Resilience and Natural Elasticity

Wool, in contrast, is known for its resilience and elasticity. Wool fibres naturally have a crimped structure, which allows them to stretch and return to their original shape more effectively. This elasticity means wool can better withstand everyday wear without becoming permanently stretched. For example, wool garments are often used in items that require flexibility, like tailored jackets or sportswear, as the fibres can handle more movement without losing form.

However, despite wool's resilience, it too can lose some of its shape over time if exposed to heavy wear or stored improperly. Wool tends to stretch less than cashmere, and it can usually withstand up to 20-30% stretch before showing signs of deformation, making it a better choice for garments that need to hold their shape over long periods.

Factors Influencing Stretching in Both Fabrics

Several factors influence the stretching tendencies of both cashmere and wool, and understanding these can help in the proper care of each fabric:

1. Moisture: Both cashmere and wool are more vulnerable to stretching when wet. For cashmere, the risk is greater due to the softness of the fibres, while wool’s elasticity gives it more resistance but doesn’t eliminate the risk entirely.
2. Weight of Garment: Heavier garments, particularly wool coats and thick cashmere jumpers, are more prone to stretching under their own weight if not stored or dried properly.
3. Frequency of Wear: Regular wearing of cashmere can lead to stretching, especially around the elbows, cuffs, and shoulders where the fabric experiences the most movement. Wool, by contrast, tends to recover better in these areas thanks to its elasticity, but heavy wear can still lead to sagging over time.
4. Handling and Storage: As mentioned, hanging garments like cashmere or wool coats can lead to unwanted stretching. Using padded hangers for wool or folding cashmere to avoid gravity pulling on the fibres helps maintain the integrity of the garment.

Preventing Stretching: Best Practices for Cashmere and Wool

To avoid the frustration of stretching, it’s essential to follow best practices for both cashmere and wool care. For cashmere, the most important thing is to handle the fabric gently, especially when wet, and always lay items flat to dry. Wool garments can often tolerate being hung if the hanger is padded and the garment is not too heavy. However, laying them flat will still provide the safest option for long-term preservation of shape.

Care Techniques: Do They Differ for Wool and Cashmere?

The care requirements for wool and cashmere differ significantly. Understanding these differences is essential for maintaining the longevity and appearance of both fabrics. Cashmere, being a much finer and more delicate fibre, requires a gentler approach, while wool, although durable, also benefits from careful handling to avoid damage.

Washing Techniques

Cashmere should be washed by hand in cool or lukewarm water using a mild detergent specifically designed for delicate fabrics. Harsh detergents or hot water can cause cashmere to shrink or lose its softness. Gentle handling is key; avoid wringing or twisting the fabric, as this can cause it to stretch. Instead, gently press out excess water using a towel. Wool can tolerate machine washing, but only if the garment is labelled as machine washable and on a cool, delicate cycle. It is important to note that while both fabrics require delicate handling, studies have shown that washing wool at 20°C can maintain its elasticity better, while cashmere should always be handled more delicately due to its lower resistance to deformation.

Drying and Storage

Drying techniques also differ for these two fabrics. Cashmere should always be laid flat to dry to avoid stretching, as hanging a wet cashmere garment can distort its shape. Wool can often be hung to dry without the same risk, though laying wool garments flat is still the safest method to prevent stretching. In fact, using padded hangers for wool can help avoid damage, but cashmere should never be hung up, as its fibres are too delicate to support their own weight. Both cashmere and wool should be kept away from direct heat sources like radiators, which can cause shrinkage or damage to the fibres.

Storage is particularly important for cashmere. It is best stored folded in a drawer or on a shelf rather than on a hanger, as the weight of the garment can cause it to stretch over time. Wool, though less prone to stretching, also benefits from being stored flat, especially for heavy wool items like coats or jumpers. Moth damage is another consideration; using cedar blocks or moth-proof storage bags can protect both fabrics from these pests. In fact, cashmere and wool are particularly susceptible to moths due to their natural fibres, so ensuring garments are clean and well-stored can extend their lifespan.

Pilling Prevention

Both cashmere and wool are susceptible to pilling, which occurs when small fibres rub together and form tiny bobbles on the surface of the fabric. Cashmere is more prone to pilling due to its softer and finer fibres. To prevent this, it’s important to limit friction, such as wearing a scarf over a cashmere jumper. A cashmere comb or a fabric shaver can help remove pills without damaging the fabric. Wool can also pill, particularly in areas like the elbows or under the arms, but it generally pills less than cashmere and can be treated in much the same way.

In conclusion, while both fabrics require careful attention, cashmere demands a more delicate touch due to its finer fibres. Wool, although more robust, still benefits from gentle care to maintain its shape and longevity.

This balance of careful handling and understanding of each fabric's properties will help extend the life of garments made from these luxurious materials.

Which Is the Better Investment for Long-Term Durability?

When considering whether to invest in cashmere or wool, long-term durability is a key factor. Both materials offer excellent insulation and comfort, but their longevity can vary significantly depending on how well they are cared for and the type of garments being purchased.

Cashmere’s Longevity

Cashmere is often seen as a luxury investment, offering unparalleled softness and a lightweight warmth that is hard to beat. However, its delicate nature means that cashmere can show signs of wear more quickly than wool, particularly if not properly cared for. The fibre's fine structure makes it more susceptible to pilling, stretching, and general wear, especially in high-contact areas like elbows and cuffs. With regular care, such as hand-washing, proper drying, and gentle handling, a high-quality cashmere garment can last for many years. However, the risk of damage is higher if it’s not treated with the appropriate level of care.

Wool’s Longevity

Wool, in contrast, is typically more durable and resilient over time. The natural elasticity of wool means that it is less prone to stretching out of shape, and its thicker fibres are generally more resistant to wear and tear. Wool can withstand more frequent washing and is less likely to pill compared to cashmere. In terms of outdoor or heavy-duty garments, wool is a better choice due to its robustness, making it an excellent investment for coats, jumpers, and scarves that will see regular use.

Cost vs Value

The price point of cashmere is generally higher than wool, reflecting its luxury status. While a well-made cashmere item is a long-term investment, it’s important to weigh the costs of maintenance and potential replacement against the longevity you might get from a wool garment. Wool, although often less expensive, may provide better value for money in terms of durability, especially for items intended for regular wear.

Environmental Considerations

From a durability perspective, wool might have an edge due to its ability to last through harsher treatment and more frequent use. This makes it a practical choice for those looking for a long-lasting garment without the delicate care required by cashmere. That said, a high-quality cashmere piece, with the right care, can offer luxurious warmth and elegance for many years, making it a worthwhile investment for special items that are not subject to heavy wear.

In summary, wool tends to offer better long-term durability for those seeking a low-maintenance, hard-wearing fabric. Cashmere is ideal for those looking for luxury and softness, provided they are willing to invest in proper care.

Who Should Invest in Cashmere or Wool?

When deciding between cashmere and wool, it ultimately comes down to individual preferences, lifestyle, and how you intend to use the garment. Both fabrics have their own unique advantages, but they cater to different needs.

Who Should Choose Cashmere?

If you’re looking for luxurious softness, unmatched warmth, and lightweight comfort, cashmere is the fabric for you. It's an ideal choice for those who prioritise comfort and indulgence, particularly for garments that are worn close to the skin, such as jumpers, scarves, or loungewear. Cashmere can elevate your wardrobe with a timeless, high-end feel, making it an excellent investment for special items that you’ll cherish over the years. However, be prepared to devote time and attention to its care. Cashmere owners should be meticulous about hand-washing, drying flat, and storing garments carefully to avoid stretching or pilling.

Who Should Choose Wool?

Wool is a fantastic choice for those who prioritise durability and practicality. Whether you're looking for a robust winter coat, a hard-wearing jumper, or an outdoor layering piece, wool delivers the resilience needed for everyday wear. Wool is less demanding in terms of care, with many wool garments being machine washable and able to maintain their shape over time. For those who live in colder climates or need a fabric that can handle rougher treatment, wool is likely the better option.

Balancing Luxury and Practicality

For some, the best approach may be to include both cashmere and wool in their wardrobe. Cashmere is perfect for those special pieces that offer a touch of luxury and elegance, while wool serves as a reliable, durable choice for everyday essentials. By carefully selecting when to invest in each, you can enjoy the benefits of both fabrics, especially when moving from a cold season to a warm season, where layering and fabric versatility become essential.

In conclusion, if you value luxury and don’t mind the extra care, cashmere is a worthwhile investment. However, if you need a practical, long-lasting fabric for more frequent use, wool is likely the better choice. Ultimately, the decision hinges on how you balance your need for softness and warmth with the practicality of durability.